BEST CHINESE RESTAURANT - 2003
Whenever a chef emerges from the kitchen carrying the green net on the aluminum pole, all eyes turn to watch: Who's dinner? Which of the live lobsters, world of crabs, various species of fish, or swimming eels will leave its tank by the door to meet wok and ginger? Wherever that critter is going, that's one lucky table. There is usually a lot to watch at Chan's, from those live-fish nettings to servers staggering out from the kitchen under the weight of the enormous winter hot-pot fondue, a $38.88 giant. (A bubbling cauldron sits at the center of a table, and placed next to it is a platter brimming with nearly 20 ingredients, everything from mushrooms and egg noodles to fish dumplings and razor clams. If neither live fish-catching nor gargantuan displays of soup are enough to amuse you, drop by on weekends to watch the motherly ladies pushing their dim-sum carts (oh, those tender egg custard buns, and ah, those translucent chive dumplings). The dim sum is available to order all day, every day, too. Factor in a beer list and sweet service, and you've got a bright little spot that's more than an eyeful, and more than a mouthful. Wonderful.