BEST BREAD - 2003
Linden Hills Turtle Bread Company
Those woven baskets at the Linden Hills Turtle Bread Company, they are a shrine to the possibilities of flour, water, and fire, and we are ecstatic to worship there. But which to take home? The simple baguette, sweet and plain and airy, as hard to describe as a single cloud in a blue sky, and as essential to a happy life? The weighty sourdough, tangy and heavy in the hand, like an egg big enough to hatch a whole week? The sweet cranberry pecan levain, the ideal bread for sandwiches on the porch, be they turkey or butter and havarti? These Turtle Bread baskets, there is nothing bad in them, nothing artificial, preserving, or yucky. These Turtle Bread baskets, they are full of nothing but wholesome food and careful attention. The only problem is that, as with baskets of puppies, it is very hard to look inside these brimming baskets and pick just a single one to take home.