Need tripe or pork ears, bitter melon or long beans? Sometimes we come here just to watch the lobsters and crabs and fish in their tanks and listen to snatches of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, and Spanish. This place is as enormous as it is exotic. It's packed to the ceiling with everything from 50-pound bags of rice and lentils and dried shrimp to rows of gnarled black radishes, odd mushrooms, and twisted squash. If you need help deciphering a recipe or identifying an ingredient, go see the guys stocking produce or tending the meat counter--they're eager, able to help, and conversant in a plethora of languages. The takeout deli features Peking duck that's lacquered mahogany and so fragrant you'll pick at the crisp skin on the way home. There are also big slabs of barbecue pork, as well as fried chicken (and chicken feet), fried potatoes, and fried pork rind. We may never get to see some of these faraway worlds, but at least we get to taste them.