BEST SUSHI - 2002
Anybody can mince up a lot of low-quality fish, hide it under a lot of chile mayonnaise, and dazzle a lot of fools. But the least-adorned fish, that takes real talent and dedication to do well. So sit right down at the sushi bar at newcomer Katsu Sushi and learn what it means to do the simplest, most difficult things extraordinarily well. Start with a couple of orders from the specials board, like a buttery, pearlescent slice of hotate (raw scallop). Or ruby-jewel tuna. Or even kohada, the difficult-to-do marinated gizzard shad that tastes as dense, powerful, and fishy as can be and is a challenge because the bones aren't picked out beforehand, but simply dissolve during proper preparation. Add a few items from the stand-up hot kitchen if you like, such as ika tempura (tender sheets of squid fried in a lacy batter) or tako-su (marinated slices of octopus on a little hill of seaweed salad). And by all means, get some dynamite rolls and such if you like them, but when you do, know that they're full of better fish than you'll get anywhere else in town.