Every city should have at least one legendary hot-dog emporium. In Washington, D.C., it's Ben's Chili Bowl. In Fort Lauderdale, Hot Dog Heaven. Chicago, of course, is hot-dog mecca, with so many topnotch purveyors (Flukey's, Wolfy's, Byron's, etc.) that it might be possible to subsist there on hot dogs alone--until you keel over from a heart attack, anyway. Hereabouts the choices are more limited. The Wienery on the West Bank offers a bohemian hot-dog experience, with many unique variations on the standard dog. The Hot Dog Café, a Coon Rapids newcomer, displays admirable ambition but is hurt by a teenage staff that doesn't exercise the proper care required to deliver maximum satisfaction. The undisputed top dog remains Joey D's. For those unfamiliar with the drill, here's a primer: poppy-seed bun, sliced pickles, tomatoes, chopped onions, hot peppers, relish, celery salt, mustard, and, of course, the Vienna Beef dog. Squeeze, eat, belch, and repeat until bloated.