Food & Drink

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BEST DOUGHNUTS Minneapolis 2002 - Blackey's

Heard the one about the crackheads in Louisiana who stole a Krispy Kreme truck and led cops on a wild chase, strewing doughnuts on the highway as they fled? Stupid crackheads, what do they know about anything? Those doughnuts are merely sweet and light, merely hot. The doughnuts at Blackey's? They're light as clouds. Stick your nose in one and inhale the scent of honest flour, real sugar, bubbly yeast--is this how Heaven smells? Probably, but our best researchers haven't said a thing about the toppings available in Heaven, and these seem a little decadent to be angel-approved: lush chocolate glazes rich with imported cocoa and hot with a touch of liqueur, fresh-toasted almonds, tender macaroon coconut. They're 50-to-70-cent bits of accomplished European pastry, in grab-'em and dunk-'em shapes. Frankly, it's a good thing this little Polish and Danish bakery has such an obscure northeast location. Really, it's such a counterintuitive spot that only good, upstanding Minneapolis city spelunkers can ever find it--which is all for the best, because crackheads causing run-over Krispy Kremes is funny, but even a single lost crumb from a Blackey's doughnut would be a little tale of tragedy.

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