How many menus are there at Chan's, the brand-new bright Chinese place on 25th Street, just off Nicollet Avenue South? One time we counted seven: the standard lunch menu, a pair of dim sum menus (ooh, those salty and savory rice-noodle bundles with dried shrimp), the bubble-tea menu (sweet drinks with giant tapioca balls in them--yum!), the fresh fish list (choose your prey from the bubbling tanks), a "standard" dinner menu (sea cucumber with black mushroom sauce, anyone?), and a specials board. Best of all, they don't dumb down the food. The place is so ambitious and far-ranging that a trio of visits convinced us of nothing except that a good couple of years of greatly rewarding exploration awaits. Will we ever get to the banquet menus? Stay tuned.