What the hell is on that grill? The angel on our shoulder wants to say, "Magic!" But the devil says, "Drugs!" Whatever it is, Matt's duly famous Jucy Lucy has it: The Jucy Lucy, in case you're not an earthling, is two beef patties seared around a molten core of bubbling cheese, topped (ideally) with dark-fried onions, and issued forth from a grill that has been in continuous operation for some 50 years and seems to impart a particular magic to every pad of beef that crosses its surface. It's true, we're fickle, and there have been some years our attention was drawn by steakhouse burgers, but this year it was the Jucy Lucy that had us practically jittering off the seat in joy when it was presented, and that creates even in memory a pain and craving so deep no other food could possibly fill the void. But the nice thing about good old Matt's Bar: It's one of the few places on earth where you're guaranteed that every single time you set out to chase the dragon, you will catch it.