We've had troubles with this old-time favorite before: bones that were too dry; a general lack of inspiration or attention. And yet these days Market is serving the best barbecue in town. Pork ribs are smoky, meaty, and still moistly fatty, just as they should be. Ribs are available in lots of different sizes and prices, but four bones cost $9.50, and a full slab goes for $19.50 nowadays. Both sizes are paired with Market's standard sides of buttered toast, fries, and cole slaw, and the whole package is served on a piece of wax paper on a cafeteria tray. Chicken is dense and smoky (half a chicken runs $10.95, with sides). Beef ribs, best ordered "saucy"--or covered with sauce before heating so they're not too dry--are meaty and falling off the bone. Add a couple of beers, and the place feels downright convivial--especially if you're a man, or looking for one. What's the gender split here these days, 80/20? Men love ribs, and right now they, and we, are loving 'em most at Market.