You don't have to be an East Coast purist to know the difference between a bagel and a bun. Whether you prefer a plain bagel with lox or a schmeer or you're loading up some blasphemous, fruity deal with peanut butter, what really matters is texture and contrast: a crisp, slightly shiny surface sliced open to reveal dense, chewy innards that are neither doughy nor dry. The best (well, the only) way to create such a delightful crunch-and-chew contrast is by making the bagel the old-fashioned way, with kettle-boiled water instead of steam. Bagelman's know this. They also know about high-gluten flour (for a more substantial chew). We like to swing into the downtown Minneapolis location during the morning rush and bark out our order for a fresh egg or whole-wheat bagel with a mere schmeer. Because sometimes the East Coast purists know what they're flapping their gums about--and around.