Sure, the Talbot's-clad mom at the next table is sporting a diamond the size of your incisor. And yes, the preschoolers who tumbled out of her cute-ute are dressed more for prep school then for Gymboree. But dollars to doughnuts, her kids are making just as big a mess as yours. And, like you, she's here because no one cares. Her brood--who become mondo fussbudgets at those chichi joints with the faux Tuscan décors--are happily tucking into freshly formed, juicy cheeseburgers; grilled cheese sandwiches; long, thin, crunchy fries made on the premises from topflight Idahos; and giant sundaes. The kids are happy (and for less than $2.75 apiece!) and she's enjoying a moment of downtime, courtesy of a jukebox bursting with boomer chestnuts and the best hot-fudge malt in the metro area.