Every year we wonder: Does Yangtze have the best dim sum in town, or is it My Le Hoa? So every year we make the pilgrimages, and this year Yangtze just knocked our socks off, combining gorgeous food with we-only-have-eyes-for-you service. As soon as we sat in the (always) crowded dining room, carts converged on the table, yielding translucent dumplings filled with scallions, spinach, and wee cubes of tofu; pork dumplings topped with a pretty little diamond of bright carrot; sesame balls so fresh from the fryer they motored around the plate on their own steam; chow-fun noodles as silky as clouds. And just when it seemed that the kitchen was all out of crystal shrimp dumplings--voilà!--the manager disappeared into the kitchen and secured a plate just for us. We felt like the children of the owner, when in fact we were just pilgrims seeking brunch.