Sure, you can go to the New French Bakery or Turtle Bread Company or French Meadow Bakery & Café and get a perfectly good croissant. Flaky. Buttery. Greasy, in a good way. The whole deal. But at Trung Nam French Bakery in Frogtown you get all that and you get to feel like you're part of an economic renaissance along University Avenue. Trung Nam is housed in what was once a boarded up, derelict former Popeye's fried chicken franchise--a symbol of blight. Nowadays the drive-thru remains intact (although not functioning), but otherwise the place has been transformed. On weekday mornings the parking lot is as crowded as a McDonald's during the dinner rush. Inside, patrons crowd the booths, smoking cigarettes, sipping coffee, and eating pastries. And the croissants? Scrumptious.