What are bánh-mì? Here's one answer: They're the love child of French baking and Vietnamese salads--Vietnamese hoagies made of cilantro, sweet pickled carrots, daikon, julienne cucumber, slivered jalapeños, spicy mayonnaise, and some sort of filling all smooshed together inside a crispy, airy loaf of French bread. But here's a better answer: They're the best thing to happen to cheap gourmets since pizza was cut into slices. Don't buy it? Then take your $2 to Saigon for proof. This place makes bánh-mì that make you want to renounce all other foods. They make all their ingredients, and breads, from scratch, from the eggy mayo to the savory, French-accented pâté. Try the meatball bánh-mì, a pillowy, comfort-food extravaganza, or the house-made barbecued pork, or the straight-up veggie version. Next thing you know, you'll be up on the order board, one of those lucky souls getting 100 at a time.