There's a reason this utterly unpretentious, jock-and-family-friendly joint packs 'em in night after night, year after year, and it ain't the projection TV. Long housed on an inconspicuous corner at the eastern edge of downtown St. Paul, Red's Savoy Inn has mastered the oft-overlooked science of 100 percent American pizza. The basic premise: Load a host of savory and mostly familiar (pickles, anyone?) toppings onto a just-crisp-enough thin crust and cut it into gloriously gooey squares (leave the wimpy wedge-shape slices to those froufrou focaccia peddlers, please). A simple-but-succulent sauce and copious amounts of mozzarella don't hurt, either. They'll go light on the ingredients if you like--custom jobs are no problem, time permitting--but we can't help marveling at how much meat (hell yes, hamburger counts!) and vegetables these folks can fit onto a single pie when called upon. Bravissimo! Er, scratch that. U-S-A! U-S-A! ((Red's also has a location in east St. Paul and one in Newport.)