Watching this little restaurant grow has been one of the more obscure delights of Twin Cities life over the past few years. Proprietors Sunny and Pong Kim started out a couple of years ago serving a handful of excellent dishes in a run-down storefront on Snelling. Flash forward to 2000 and discover a menu filled with absolute treasures--the salted, grilled mackerel is easily one of the most reliably wonderful entrées in town--and a rustic décor that seems to reflect more work each time we visit. When you go, be sure not to miss the mandoo--fresh, light-as-steam twists of dumpling filled with meat and scallions, and the delectable chile-and-ginger-stewed ribs in the pork-rib cheem.