Is it the latitude? The longitude? When did Minnesotans collectively decide that "Italian" is synonymous with "perfect"? Anytime pink winter tomatoes show up next to some slightly fresh mozzarella there's dancing in the streets. We toyed with suggesting that you just head for the farmers' market--figuring that you can eat a lot better for a lot cheaper at home than you can at many low-budget Italian eateries--but then we remembered Cossetta's, where you're fed for a song, where there's abundant romance and sense of place (and cannoli!), and where the Lady and the Tramp meets Minnesota Historical Society décor (push aside the faux prosciuttos some night and look at those black-and-white photos)--and where, finally, you're never, never, ever disappointed by the forthright Southern Italian-American cuisine. Sausage and peppers, anyone? Veal parmigiana? One quibble: What's a good Italian restaurant without a good loaf of semolina bread? Capisce?