As long as we've been going there, walking into Delmonico's Italian Food has meant running into George and Louis Delmonico. We always thought of George and Louis, once proclaimed "Best Little Old Men" in this very publication, as the Click and Clack of neighborhood grocers: two chaps who were funny enough to get away with laughing at their own banter, and good enough at what they did to deliver something more than a simple shtick. Shoppers wandering into their tiny, nondescript market in northeast Minneapolis's Beltrami neighborhood could count on being offered samples of imported delicacies, a string of hopelessly corny jokes, and, if they were single ladies, an honest-to-God ball and chain. Louis passed away a year and a half ago, but George is still gently heckling customers into packing their shopping baskets with all kinds of authentic Italian goods--including terrific pastas. Try the gnocchi, or the tortellini, or just opt for plain flat noodles. Then there's our favorite: portobello mushroom ravioli, a treat as meaty and earthy as anything you've ever sunk your teeth into.