Great ethnic restaurants flourish along Nicollet, but Christos was here long before the "Eat Street" hype. In this clean, well-lighted spot, you couldn't go wrong if you pointed at the menu blindfolded. The hummus ($5.15) is smooth and garlicky, the saganaki (kasseri cheese flamed with brandy and doused with lemon, $6.25) creamy-crisp in a crème-brûlée sort of way. For the main course, the spanakopita--spinach, feta, dill, and scallions baked in a deliciously flaky phyllo pastry--simply melts in your mouth. (Prices vary for lunch, dinner, and appetizer versions.) Heartier appetites might want to try the delectable pork chops piperata ($11.75), or keep an eye out for the stuffed chicken breast specials. For dessert, don't miss the creamy rizogalo--that's rice pudding to you, bub. You can even drink Greek here with a bottle of Mythos beer or a glass of Naoussa red wine. The new Christos location in St. Paul's majestic Union Depot offers something you can't get in Minneapolis: a fabulous Monday-through-Friday lunch buffet, a smorgasbord of delights for those who must have everything.