We always try to avoid honoring an establishment in more than one category, but in Surdyk's case we've got to make an exception. Elsewhere in this section, we extol this tiny gourmet shop--an annex to Surdyk's landmark Nordeast liquor store--for its way with the fermented curd (see Best Cheese Selection). Here they get the nod for their all-around gourmetitude. The wee dimensions of this establishment belie the richness within. Besides the colossal selection of cheeses, you've got your highfalutin crackers, your breads, pastas, coffees, sauces, condiments, and preserves. You've got your salamis and your pâtés, your chocolates, your cheesecakes, and your tortes. Perhaps best of all, you've also got your friendly, proficient staff, always available to lend an ear, a sample, and a suggestion.