Bagels aren't that complex a foodstuff, so why are there so few good ones west of the Hudson River? A bagel lover in these parts must simply make do, taste-testing the local offerings, compromising, always compromising, and then, inevitably prevailing upon a loved one who's traveling to New York City to bring back the real thing. Then along comes Big City Bagels and gives us hope. While you're still better off going to New York, the price of a Sun Country ticket is admittedly a little steep when all you want to do is nosh. These Big City bad boys are big, sufficiently odd-shaped, tasty, and yes, even somewhat chewy. Grab one, slather on the cream cheese, add some lox, and feel the joy.