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BEST MARGARITA Minneapolis 1999 -

Before we sing the praises of Boca Chica and its la Señora margarita ($4.25), there's something we need to get straight. Whatever your Midwestern palate has been conditioned for, the margarita is supposed to consist of absolutely fresh lime juice, tequila, and triple sec, shaken with ice and served neat. Over the decades various upscale watering holes throughout the Western Hemisphere have tinkered with this by making small additions of, say, confectioners' sugar or simple sugar syrup. But in our opinion, once the bartender steps away from the original three-part formula by substituting Grand Marnier for the triple sec or--Dios guarde--pouring in anything containing corn syrup, you no longer have a true margarita. And as for anyone who offers to serve you a "margarita" made by blending tequila with some other variety of fruit juice--well, it may be tasty, but call it something different: "Pledge Week at the Sorority," perhaps. Someone at Boca Chica understands all this, and the evidence is la Señora: a cocktail shaker of unadulterated margarita. By the time you've emptied the contents into the martini glass with a salted rim that arrives alongside, it actually works out to something more like two margaritas.

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