Competition finally churned up this category after years of stagnation, thanks to newcomers Chipotle Grill (an outpost of an upscale Denver chain) and Central Avenue's El Rancho Grande (which indisputably makes the Cities' biggest burritos). We still have to give it to the café in El Burrito Mercado, whose guisados (stews) remain unbeaten: One day you can choose a sour pork and prickly-pear cactus filling, another a chipotle-beef stew, the third a spicy, spicy chicken--plus, always, those creamy refried beans, the salsa bar, and all the liquados and Jarritos sodas you can drink. So settle in and watch the piñatas on the ceiling spin.