Pizza Lucé's merits are legion: a homemade red sauce that's spicy, piquant, flecked with fresh bits of basil and oregano, and free of any lesser canned sauce's citric-acid bite; a homemade crust that's crisp outside and airy and tender within; and 35 toppings--including three sorts of olives (calamata, marinated green, and traditional California sliced), vegetables traditional (green peppers, mushrooms), highbrow (sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts), and inspired (scallions, oven-roasted eggplant), not to mention labor-intensive goodies more commonly found in white-tablecloth restaurants than in pizza places, such as homemade Italian pork sausage, freshly grilled chicken breasts, and made-fresh-daily pesto.