Broders' is the place to go when spaghetti and linguini just won't cut it. Paglia, maltagliati, trenette, pappardelle, quadrucci--every strand of pasta at Broders' is handmade--and the dishes the kitchen creates with those noodles showcase the endlessly versatile nature of Italy's favorite flour. Maltagliati (literally "badly cut," in reference to the irregular hand-formed triangular shapes) is served with peppered beef tenderloin, sun-dried tomatoes, asparagus, and bell peppers in a zinfandel sauce. Trenette (a very thick linguini) comes simply, with a zippy pesto, potatoes, and green beans. Outside, in Broders' new "olive bar," while you're waiting for your we-don't-take-reservations table, savor a glass of wine, dabble with some unusual olives, and think of how lovely the world would be if every food were explored as thoughtfully and thoroughly as Broders' does its pasta. If you're in a do-it-yourself mood, keep in mind that across the street at Broders' market you can purchase fresh-made pasta in a variety of flavors--egg, herb and garlic, spinach, and sometimes tomato--in four ready-to-boil ribbon-pasta widths (fettuccine, pappardelle, linguini, or angel hair) or in fresh pasta sheets.