Every year it's an agonizing choice: cafe un deux trois or the New French Café? One serves French food as it is in the side streets, the other French food as it is in your dreams. While it's true that sometimes nothing but the city hubbub and moules mariniéres at un deux trois will do, this time around we're singling out the New French, for its exquisite service and otherworldly menu. How can we possibly resist a meal that begins with Crispy Pillows stuffed with cilantro chicken mousse, followed by an arugula salad topped with an Absolut Citron tomato concassé? For the main event, how about marinated pork tenderloin in a white bean and opal basil emulsion, with sweet potato pancakes, red beet cornichon salsa, and candied fennel? And is there any better climax to a New French meal than the legendary chocolate mousse? C'est impossible, mon ami, c'est impossible.