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BEST BISCUITS AND GRAVY Minneapolis 1998 -

The folks who run this no-bigger-than-a-trailer breakfast joint are such biscuits-and-gravy connoisseurs that they serve two different versions--the "original" plateful and the "ultimate." The original ($2.90) consists of two biscuits the size of hamburger buns split four-leaf-clover-style beneath a sea of creamy country gravy studded with big chunks of fresh sausage. (Admittedly, it would look a little gross if it weren't for the paprika sprinkled on top.) And if the original is wonderful, the ultimate ($3.85) is stellar: Rick adds mushrooms and "spices it up." Rick's also serves up pretty mean wild-rice pancakes (blueberry and corn versions are also available) and a surprisingly good "Minnesota omelet" stuffed with wild rice, bacon, and American cheese. If you insist on counting fat grams, they'll throw the wild rice into oatmeal. Of course, there's a caveat. Arrive early or be prepared to wait in line with a lot of hungry people sporting bed-head. The place only seats about 50, and it takes a little while for the folks ahead of you to make their way through a full order of biscuits and gravy.

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