Sure, El Niño is wreaking havoc on the world's climate to the extent that you might be tempted to believe that Armageddon is at hand. Then again, four years ago there were no Big City Bagels in town, and now they are clearly in the ascendant, so things can't really be that bad. What's so great about Big City Bagels' bagels? Well, they're big. And chewy--almost fleshy--with a hard but not cereal-crisp crust. Though they come in 16 varieties, do yourself a favor and stick with the basics--plain, say, or poppy-seed, or salt, or sesame seed...or, if you must, onion or garlic. (Let's try to nip this sun-dried-tomato-jalapeño-pesto-bagel trend in the bud.)