It's the claustrophobic atmosphere of this well-stocked supply shop that draws us back to the West Bank again and again. Towering shelves of handmade papers and the scent of acrylics and oils surround us as we wander in search of pastels, pencils, pressboard, and pushpins. Compared to other local supply shops, the Artery's pricing is moderate and the backroom frame shop is a welcome feature. Online shoppers can access the store's goods via the Web (www.pierce-artery.com), but we prefer to browse in person: Where else could you find an actual powder-blue painter's smock?