When the primary vessel for so many dishes is corn tortillas (made fresh to order!), it takes little effort to keep gluten off the menu. But for the sake of inclusion, Colita makes the most of Oaxacan flavor profiles without using a single fleck of flour in the joint. Their lauded bar program, centered around pre-Columbian ferments and agave spirits, is also free of gluten, and though they do serve beer, it’s kept separate, free from cross-contamination. The kitchen nimbly balances chiles, herbs, citrus, and umami-boosters into one of the best elevated Mexican dining experiences in town—regardless of gluten tolerance.