Since the beginning, the cornerstone of this sunny powerhouse has been warm and personal service, never mind that the menu consists of 90 percent organic and local ingredients. Owner Rashmi Battachan still serves tables with the patience of a saint, pairing plates (“Get poori with that! It’s a match made in heaven!”) as if you were best friends. Like this, two dishes at a time, Gorkha’s built a cult following. Their paalak paneer is prepared differently than its pretenders, and it simply tastes superior: The spinach has texture, with a rounder garlic flavor and deeper spices rising at the end. Looking for something a little more traditional? The momos—purses stuffed with meat, spice, and vegetables—are legendary, as are the blistered baskets of naan. Come hungry. Leave smiling.