Some restaurants still leave diners with the option of 1) something huge, with a side of fries, or 2) a salad that could, with a few well-placed, angry stabs, be lifted into the air for a single sad bite. Not so at Spoonriver, where greens get center-stage treatment and six salads fill out an otherwise modest dinner menu. Each stands alone as a light but satiating meal. An udon salad has expertly balanced portions of peanut-y noodles, lettuce, and chicken or mock duck. In a classic niçoise, the fresh, crunchy ingredients fight for space. In keeping with their treatment as meals, salads come amply dressed; get yours on the side if you prefer a lighter touch.