This one-woman kitchen produces some of the best Thai we’ve had anywhere, despite what its nondescript University Avenue storefront might telegraph. Listen for the knocking sound of the chef’s big patina’d mortar and pestle, where the makings of mouth-singeing green papaya salads and laab are brought together. This is also ground zero for fresh curries, whole fish dishes, and all manner of soups, from the fresh thom kha to various noodle creations. But hands down the best reason to go to Thai Cafe is the revelatory sour pork ribs, a fermented fatty epiphany with peppers, lime, and garlic that must be had to be believed. These are as sure an addiction as Thai Cafe’s mile-high iced coffees and mango sticky rice dessert.