The face of fine dining seems to be changing, the old traditions fading by the minute, even in New York. It’s too easy to get delectable food at a reasonable price while wearing jeans and sneakers. Why even bother with finery anymore? Bother because dining, at its best, is a transporting experience filled with drama, theater, and surprise. Patrick Atanalian and Michael Kutscheid of Sanctuary know all that, thanks to decades in the dining world harkening back to a time when the terms “fine” and “dine” were almost synonymous. You’ll see the imprint of their pedigree all over Sanctuary, a category-defying lair where gargoyles peek out from behind high-backed chairs, and a real-deal French chef and proper maitre d’ make dining an experience far beyond scooping food off a plate. A grown-up wine list, a menu where one might encounter sea urchin, turtle soup, and rattlesnake, and a server who can recite specials from memory are a few reasons why you should turn to this eccentric marvel when you want not just to eat, but to dine.