Lowertown’s Handsome Hog is “contemporary Southern,” one of those higher-end spots where you can get a frosty mint julep with your hog jowl, and handmade ice cream after a pork shank pot-au-feu. But we like Handsome best when it’s behaving like a regular barbecue joint. They do classics with aplomb, like the superior chicken wings, only on the bar menu, and only at midday. This means that like many good things in life (and barbecue) you gotta do a little planning and scheming to get ’em. Choose between Tennessee Hot and Bourbon & Smoke. We prefer the latter, with enough smoke to leave the skin golden and crackling. The whiff of bourbon begs you to pair them with yet more brown liquor, available here in almost every permutation known to man.
Readers’ Choice: D-Spot