Everyone knows the coolest culinary innovations happen in big cities, right? Wrong. Travail is a testament to how genius can thrive in small cities. In this unassuming building on Robbinsdale's main drag, kitchen tinkerers channel the curiosity of scientists and the flair of ringmasters, crafting dishes beyond your wildest imagination. There are atomizers and Pop Rocks; there is a lot of liquid nitrogen. A pork fat candle melts down to become a decadent sauce. Speck ham is served — and eaten — from meat hooks. A rotating selection of 14 to 20 microplates makes up the tasting menu, the best and only way to experience Travail. The emphasis here is on amusement, so they sell tickets to the show — $60 to $95, gratuity included. (You can also head to the attached Rookery for a chance to survey the microplates at your own pace and leisure, no tickets or reservations necessary.) Go forth and be amused, amazed, and fed in humble Robbinsdale.