The eggplant needs our help. They look great sitting out, but what's inside doesn't have much texture or flavor. The upside: Eggplant is a chameleon ingredient, ready to absorb or become one with whatever it's thrown into. At SW Craft in downtown St. Paul, the eggplant fries are sliced thin and short, and tossed in panko bread crumbs. Then they're fried to a crisp that'll remind you of a lightly seasoned Asian cracker. Save the pillowy yucca fries for the days when your teeth are falling out. Bite into these crunchy fries now. One suggestion: These can come vegan, with a perfectly passable vegan aioli — its own feat — but shop around for more exciting dipping sauces with your server's assistance. Help the eggplant.