Not every establishment is a resonant reflection of its geography. Saint Dinette is. For those of us who know the saintly city, and know it well, this menu of dilly beans, tuna casserole, and fried smelt will unearth cherished memories of Sunday dinners at the lake. But that doesn't mean this is a small-town kind of place. Quite the opposite. If Saint Dinette has done anything, it's upped the ante on what St. Paul can and should do. Because next to the smelt, find remoulade, thick and rich as butter. In the casserole, find good Pecorino and fancy Campanelle pasta. Find hospitality the likes of which you only get at grandma and grandpa's cabin, but in a posh dining room that frames the way St. Paul is growing up, and growing up fast. None of this means you have to put down your PBR. They've got those too, for three bucks a can.