Restaurants come and restaurants go. But not Alma. Staying power like this is rare. The quiet stalwart has been open for 17 years. At first it seemed to serve visiting parents of University of Minnesota students, or maybe natty professors with relatively bulky wallets. But since then, it's become the site of engagements, anniversaries, and celebrations galore. More often than that, it's the understated weeknight dinner spot that makes an ordinary Wednesday an occasion. The food is consistently excellent — ingredient-driven without being boring, inventive without being showy. The prices are middling enough not to alienate. The servers are the sort who remember, even if it's been half a year since your last visit. The room is banal enough so you know: It's about you and your company, not the decor. They've got big plans, including a casual cafe with all-day eggs and pastries, plus a handful of guest rooms upstairs. Indeed Alma is a place so pitch perfect, you never want to go home. And soon you won't have to.