Our time-capsule establishments are precious gems, too often treasured when it's too late. See the demise of Nye's, Bonnie's Cafe, Peter's Grill, and a host of others for evidence. And no matter how many design teams a new place may employ, rarely can they evoke the transporting experience of a quinquagenarian like Mancini's. Most establishments open for more than a decade buckle under the urge to remodel. Not here. The Vegas-style lounge welcomes like a satiny bosom. There are no windows, there are no clocks. The color scheme ranges from red to redder. Round lounge chairs envelop like Santa's lap, with the promise of much finer treats than he ever brought. Drinks are strong and at workingman's prices, while the dance floor hosts everyone from elegant ballroom steppers to 20-somethings shaking it to a live band. The stadium-style red vinyl booths offer a clear view of the excitement, illuminated by the light of cabaret bulbs. Here's to hoping Mancini's never changes a fiber of its headache-inducing yet wholly alluring carpet pattern.