When we crave Italian, we crave certain ingredients in particular: noodles, red sauce, roasted and braised meats, cheese. Italian Eatery, above all others, understands these imperatives. The cooking here gets out of its own way, a humble recognition that Italian probably doesn't need a lot of chefly flourish. Instead of flourishes, Italian Eatery focuses on mastering the essentials. Their restrained but skillful hand with pasta, gnocchi, tiramisu, and mussels tells the tale of humility. Service is comparable to the cooking — equal parts knowledge, confidence, and affability. This harmony is just what Italian cooking needs right now.