Nobody does ambiance with the aplomb of Grand Cafe. Nobody has the time, because the bread oven is acting wonky again and the hostess just quit. Somehow Grand Cafe still manages to dig out the real silver candelabras, to tie bows onto the flower vases, to iron the creases out of white linens. On Sunday nights, local piano legend Cornbread Harris plays live while silent films dance on the wall. The cooking is timeless Mediterranean elegance: individually stuffed agnolotti in black truffle vinaigrette; tremblingly tender short ribs in chile-raisin puree; sourdough bread baked on site. Slow, gentle, can't-rush-it things. Romantic things.