The fine dining of yore is all but outmoded around here. Three of our fanciest establishments fell in rapid succession this year: La Belle Vie, then Vincent, then Brasserie Zentral. There just aren't diners enough to fill all those ornate rooms. Which is why Landon Schoenefeld, long one of our town's most clever chefs, took a different approach with Birdie. His small south Minneapolis nook only expects to fill 12 seats nightly. In exchange for the neat and tight price of a one hundred dollar bill, diners are given a ticket to the show: 10 to 14 dishes comprising some of the finest cooking in town right now. A smoked carrot dumpling makes a play on barbecue. A single kale chip daubed with beef fat is meaty as anything. Baby potatoes are everything potatoes can be, in every iteration, on one small plate. And you're never quite sure what you're going to get, as the menu constantly evolves. This is the new face of fine dining, and it's all very surprising.