Doughnuts have gone the way of the cupcake. Lost to the kitsch of cognac jellies and meat infusions, this poor man's pleasure has become a high-dollar novelty. But the days of the $6 dozen are not over in the Twin Cities. South Minneapolis' A Baker's Wife is more revered for its lemon squares than its doughnuts, but owners Gary Tolle and Margaret Mossberg Tolle make superlative, dunkable rings of fried batter that put overproduced, epicurean Frankensteins on notice. The mastery is undisguised. Even when they're rolled in cinnamon sugar or smeared with chocolate ganache, you can always taste the carefully browned cake beneath the accoutrements. They're a reminder of what heights minimalism can achieve.