Fancy Ran-Ham is not. Nor is it extremely conducive to children celebrating birthdays. This hole-in-the-wall operation consists of six lanes in a basement where you mark your scores on paper with a stick of graphite and listen to music from a jukebox salvaged from the Cold War era. Ran-Ham runs on old-school gears and motors, where the bumpers are inflatable and things clank and break a little more often than they do at Brunswick Zone, but it's all a part of that classic bowling dive experience. The decor: various artistic interpretations of the PBR label, steam pipes in the ceiling, a snazzy disco ball, and a mural depicting food-fighting robots. Bring your own ball or be content to slug primordial lumps down the lanes. Maybe come prepared with your own stash of toilet paper as well. Beers are cheap and free-flowing, and the Nook upstairs offers delicious Juicy Lucy and Molitor Burgers. Utterly charming.