There are a handful of other foodstuffs that incite the frenzied devotion that good fried chicken does, and they're also Americana at its truest: burgers, pizza, maybe doughnuts. It's simple, everyman's food, yet it can also be abstruse; it's so difficult to get right every time. Revival, the newest venture from Southern transplant Thomas Boemer, has cracked the code. Of course, a good fried chicken house is more than so much protein covered in batter and dipped in oil. With bedfellows of humble food gone glorious — collards, flaky biscuits, green tomatoes cloaked in lacy batter then fried, bread and butter pickles — it's great, soul-affirming eating at a good price that almost no one can quibble with. As a result, good fried chicken (burst-under-the tooth batter yielding to succulently moist bird beneath) deserves something of a peace prize, and this year it goes to Revival.