A straight martini is the swaggering CEO of cocktaildom. It plunks down the briefcase, clacks open the clasps, and shows off a million cool ones. It means business. Things like the Cosmo have come along to try to quell its bluster, to make it easier on the masses, but the folly of that is widely known. If one simply must curb the power of a bowl of vodka, do it properly. La Belle Vie's Night of the Hunter takes salty caramel, the obvious sweet choice of the moment, and keeps the vodka burn in check with a little bit of sugar. A spoonful does help the medicine go down, after all.