A true story: Chef finds an Ashland County Fair cookbook filled with his own wife's grandma's recipes. He then finds a recipe for pancakes, tests it, and finds that it is the almost perfect pancake. He tinkers. He tinkers some more and a little more. Then he gets some help from details like an ancient griddle that receives copious knobs of butter for eggs and omelets all day and burnishes these pancakes to a golden patina. Get yours at the Grand Cafe; try a stack striated with blueberries for a tangy pop to offset the down-home sweetness that's like the gift of a county fair cookbook.