A delegation of African-American church ladies descend on Brasa, hats and all, and ask to see the chef. When Alex Roberts emerges, they fall all over themselves with laughter, convinced they're being played. Nope. It's the slim, athletic white guy with the deep reverence for Southern cuisines of the Americas who made this soul food. He's got a pro touch with the way most of the world eats — beans, rice, inexpensive braises, the pinnacle of salsas, hard cooked collards, and grits. You're not being played, you're being nourished, and if the result makes you smile, so be it.