It remains the number-one spot in town to satisfy a craving for perfect pot roast (some say they like the meatloaf even more), but the Modern Cafe in Sheridan is so much more than beef and gravy. Though the name might conjure up images of sleek lines and minimalistic steely touches, there's actually a very retro aesthetic going on here. It's a thread that runs through everything from the floor tiles to the modified diner-style decor and occasionally even extends to the food. You haven't lived until you've had their homemade Ritz crackers with chicken liver mousse, and as far as we're concerned, they make the definitive wedge salad, an updated version of the 1960s restaurant staple with soft egg and bacon croutons. But don't start thinking they're all about nostalgia. The Modern's staff and owners have their feet planted very firmly in the present, playing with terrines, pork belly, and a fabulous ragu of prune and lamb, and showing commitment to the future by sourcing all their ingredients as locally, organically, and sustainably as possible. It's also a little-known secret that they make a dynamite Manhattan. Must have something to do with the house-made dry vermouth.